Travel Guide
EXPLORING SICILY
Besides being Francesca’s home region, Sicily has been a huge part of our story and the scenario of many of our best memories together. We have hand-picked some of our favorite places, activities and food that we want to share with you. We have no doubt you, too, will fall in love with this magical place.
You can also access these recommendations through the Google Maps itinerary we’ve prepared here.
Sicily’s native language is Italian, and most people also speak the local Sicilian dialect. While English is becoming more and more commonly spoken, and most tourist sites will be comfortable communicating with you, we recommend you keep Google Translate or DeepL on your phone to ensure a smooth experience. Also please make sure to have some Euros in cash with you.
Also, check out our Hotels & Flights page for more information on transportation options!
Santo Stefano Quisquina
FRANCESCA’S HOMETOWN
Francesca’s hometown, Santo Stefano Quisquina (SSQ), is in the heart of rural Sicily, at an elevation of ~700m/2400ft. It counts ~4500 people and its origins date back to the early 1300s. It is a predominantly farming-based area known for exceptional cheese production, and for that nicknamed “The City of Cheese”. In addition to its breathtaking mountain landscapes, SSQ also is home to some must-see landmarks and experiences that you can’t miss while you’re there.
Sightseeing
Teatro Andromeda: It is a one-of-a-kind contemporary piece of artwork, an amphitheater built by hand by a shepherd-sculptor Lorenzo Reina. This is the place where we got engaged! You need to book tickets in advance.
Eremo della Quisquina: this Hermitage complex includes an old monastery, a crypt, a church devoted to Saint Rosalia and the cave where she reportedly took shelter. The story goes that Saint Rosalia - who’s now our patron saint - escaped from an arranged marriage, and took shelter here for about 12 years. She’s also known as the saint who freed Palermo from the plague. We have a 5-day-festival devoted to her in June and on the Tuesday of the festival we hike from downtown SSQ to the Hermitage (about 7km/10mi).
Mount San Calogero Hike: Saint Calogero Mountain hosts a small church and can be hiked up to for a wonderful view of the whole town and surrounding ones, too. Traditionally, the town does a night hike to the top of the mountain on the night of June 17th.
Villa Comunale: this is our only park and a nice retreat downtown (it is a recommended shelter from the heat).
Food & Drinks
Breakfast: Bar Nicolò has one of Jeff’s favorite Pistachio Croissant
Pizza: Borgo Buonanotte is our go-to pizza place. It is tucked into the woods (you need a car to get there); Ristorante Belvedere has belonged to Francesca’s family for over three decades, although it is now being managed by a third party.
Gelato: Bar Di Maggio has existed for decades and consistently has the best ice-cream in town
Desserts: Rosy Dolci Delizie and Tahini both have exceptional cannoli, almond cookies and cakes
Cheese: Quisquina Prodotti and Caseificio Li Chiani have some of the best products
Nightlife: Blu Bar for excellent drinks and company
How to get there from Palermo
We recommend renting a car, but you can also jump on the bus. Here’s the most up-to-date schedule: https://www.prestiaecomande.it/en/orari-e-linee/.
SIGHTSEEING & CULTURE
Palermo
Palermo is the Capital of Sicily and was also nominated as the Italian Capital of Culture in 2018. It is a vibrant and cosmopolitan city, and its prominent one-of-a-kind architecture, known as “Arab-Norman” style, is very much the product of the blend of cultures and peoples that it has hosted throughout the centuries.
In the heart of Palermo, the church of San Matteo seen from Porta di Castro street.
The fountain at the Square of Shame
Jeff in the garden of Church of San Giovanni
A glimpse of Palermo Cathedral
Sightseeing
The best way to explore Palermo is by foot (and by stomach). UNESCO has identified a path including the sites it recognized as “World Heritage”. These are:
Palazzo dei Normanni (“Norman Palace”): also known as the Royal Palace, it was once the seat of power for the Kings of Sicily.
Cappella Palatina (“Palatine Chapel”): it is located inside the Norman Palace. It was built in the 12th century and features intricate mosaics, marble work, and Islamic-style wooden ceilings.
Cattedrale di Palermo (“Palermo Cathedral”): It was originally built in the 12th century and has undergone many changes over the years, including going back and forth between being a Christian church and a mosque, making it architecturally very eclectic. Get tickets here. We recommend you also check the stunning view from the roof.
Chiesa di San Giovanni degli Eremiti (“The Church of San Giovanni of Hermits”): built in the 12th century and features a unique red-domed roof and a beautiful garden.
Chiesa di Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio o della Martorana (“Church of the Admiral or Martorana”) : includes several breathtaking mosaics and a great example of Byzantine architecture.
Chiesa di San Cataldo (“San Cataldo Church”): built in the 12th century, it features three red domes and a simple, elegant interior.
Castello della Zisa (“Zisa Castle”): it was originally built as a summer home for king Willem I of Sicily, and it is one of the most emblematic representations of Arab architecture in Sicily, with Egyptian and Mesopotamian influences.
Ponte dell'Ammiraglio (“The Admiral Bridge”): a medieval bridge.
We also encourage a visit to the following sites:
Quattro Canti (“The Four Corners”): It’s one of the most important squares in Palermo, thanks to its position at the intersection of two important streets, Via Maqueda and Via Vittorio Emanuele. The name Quattro Canti (Four Cantons) references the four ancient quarters of Palermo that come together in this square: Kalsa, Castellammare, Albergheria, and Monte di Pietà. Four of the eight sides of the square are similar Baroque buildings featuring intricate decorative elements and statues placed in niches on each of their three stories.
Teatro Massimo: the largest opera house in Italy and third largest theater in Europe. Many movie scenes have been filmed here, including the Godfather and more recently the White Lotus Season 2.
Palermo Botanical Gardens: home to a variety of exotic plants and trees and offer a peaceful retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Piazza Pretoria or Piazza della Vergogna (“The Square of Shame”): its nickname derives from the naked statues of nymphs, tritons and leaping river gods adorning the magnificent circular fountain in front of the Palazzo Pretorio (City Hall).
Food & Drinks
Street food: Ballaró and Vucciria are two of the most ancient markets of Palermo. These are both great places to grab a bite and taste some of the flavors of Sicily.
Antica Focacceria San Francesco: this is a good option for Sicilian street-food for those who want to experience it in a more comfortable environment and sitting down.
Trattoria al Club Rosanero: no-nonsense Sicilian cuisine where we loved the seafood pasta.
Trattoria ai Cascinari: another excellent lunch spot with delicious Sicilian food.
MEC Restaurant (Palermo): this is at once a Michelin-starred restaurant and a museum dedicated to Apple and a history of their products. It is a one-of-a-kind experience especially for tech nerds.
Granita (Sicilian Ice): Caffetteria del Corso or Gelateria al Cassaro (but there’s no such thing as bad granita or gelato in Sicily, really).
Accommodations
We have stayed at and recommend these options:
Cefalù is a picturesque coastal town located on the northern coast of Sicily (a 1 hour drive from Palermo), known for its beautiful beaches, stunning architecture, and vibrant culture. The town's most famous landmark is the imposing Norman Cathedral, which boasts beautiful mosaics and a breathtaking view of the sea. Visitors can also explore the town's narrow streets, charming cafes, and boutique shops, or take a stroll along the sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters. With its idyllic setting, rich cultural heritage, and relaxed atmosphere, Cefalù is a must-visit destination for anyone traveling to Sicily.
Cefalù
SIGHTSEEING & CULTURE
Sightseeing
Duomo di Cefalù (Cathedral of Cefalù): a stunning Norman cathedral located in the historic center of the town, overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. The cathedral was built in the 12th century and features beautiful Byzantine mosaics, intricate carvings, and a distinctive bell tower. The cathedral's interior is decorated with stunning artwork, including a large Christ Pantocrator mosaic that covers the apse. In recognition of its outstanding cultural and historical value, the Cathedral of Cefalù was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015.
Food & Drinks
Lo Scoglio Ubriaco: for fresh seafood on the beach
Agrigento
SIGHTSEEING & CULTURE
Agrigento is a historic city located on the southern coast of Sicily (a 2.5 hour drive from Palermo), known for its stunning archaeological sites and rich cultural heritage. The city's most famous attraction is the Valley of the Temples, a UNESCO World Heritage Site featuring some of the best-preserved ancient Greek ruins in the world. Visitors can also explore the historic center of Agrigento, which boasts beautiful architecture and lively markets offering a taste of traditional Sicilian life. With its stunning architecture, rich history, and beautiful scenery, Agrigento is a must-visit destination for anyone traveling to Sicily.
Sightseeing
Valley of the Temples: Agrigento presents one of the most prominent remains of the Greek presence in Sicily: the Valley of the Temples. It is a collection of ancient Greek ruins, including the Temple of Concordia, Temple of Hera, and Temple of Zeus. Please make sure you bring hats and water!
Food & Drinks
Ristorante Mariterra: exceptional seafood (technically in Porto Empedocle, but worth the stop)
Locanda Perbellini al Mare (Montallegro, Southern Coast): this restaurant is right on the beach and provides spectacular views on the water. They have tasting menus that are a fine dining experience but are on the more affordable side.
Siracusa
SIGHTSEEING & CULTURE
Siracusa is a beautiful city located on the southeastern coast of Sicily (a 3 hour drive from Palermo), known for its rich history, stunning architecture, and charming atmosphere. The city's most famous landmark is the ancient Greek theater, which dates back to the 5th century BC and offers visitors a glimpse into the region's ancient past. Siracusa is also home to a beautiful historic center, Ortigia, which features narrow streets, Baroque buildings, and charming piazzas lined with restaurants and cafes. Visitors can explore the area's many shops, museums, and art galleries, or simply relax and take in the beauty of the city's stunning architecture and historic charm. With its fascinating history and culture, Siracusa is a wonderful destination for travelers looking to experience the best of Sicily.
Siracusa's Duomo at night.
Fontaine Bianchi Beach is a short distance away from Siracusa and great for swimming.
Us in the cute streets of Siracusa. Photo by Letizia Ginexi.
Sightseeing
Isola di Ortigia (Ortigia Island): it’s the old neighborhood of Siracusa and predominantly pedestrian-only. Piazza del Duomo is Siracusa’s main square and hosts its majestic Cathedral.
Parco Archeologico della Néapolis (Archaeological Park): it includes both a Greek theater- where tragedies are still performed every summer - and a Roman amphitheater. Tickets can be bought in advance here.
Fontane Bianchi Beach: a captivating destination on the southeastern coast of Sicily, renowned for its pristine white sands and crystal-clear turquoise waters. This idyllic beach offers a perfect setting for relaxation and sunbathing, with its calm and inviting atmosphere. Visitors can also enjoy a variety of water activities such as swimming, snorkeling, and paddleboarding in the refreshing Mediterranean Sea.
Food & Drinks
La Tavernetta Uno da Simone: a renowned restaurant offering an exceptional dining experience, known for its delicious Sicilian cuisine, warm hospitality, and inviting ambiance.
Trattoria Do Scogghiu: charming restaurant that delights visitors with its authentic flavors, exquisite seafood dishes, and warm, welcoming atmosphere.
Azienda Agricola Pupillo: a distinguished winery in a Sicilian castle, crafting exceptional wines that showcase the region's terroir, passion, and dedication.
SIGHTSEEING & CULTURE
Taormina
Taormina is a picturesque town located on the east coast of Sicily (about a 4 hour drive from Palermo), known for its stunning scenery, ancient ruins, and vibrant culture. The town's most famous landmark is the ancient Greek Theatre, which dates back to the 3rd century BC and offers breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. Taormina is also famous for its beautiful beaches, crystal-clear waters, and lively nightlife. Fans of the hit TV series "White Lotus" may recognize Taormina's stunning landscapes from the show's second season, which was partially filmed in the town. With its stunning architecture, rich culture, and idyllic setting, Taormina is a must-visit destination for anyone traveling to Sicily.
Sightseeing
Isola Bella: once a private property, it is now a national reserve. It is connected to the main beach via a strip of land.
Teatro Antico (Greek Amphitheater): its origins back to the third century B.C. and was rebuilt during the Roman rule. It is a spectacular historical landmark, from where you can see both beautiful sea views and Mount Etna, Europe’s largest active volcano. Tickets can be bought in advance here.
Cable Car: take the cable car from the old city to the beach and enjoy incredible views in the meantime. The schedule can be found here.
Food & Drinks
Osteria da Rita: we loved this quintessential Sicilian restaurant.
Zash (Villaglossa, Etna Area): Zash is a boutique design hotel which includes a spa and Michelin-starred restaurant. The meal experience was great - they have both a full menu and a gourmet pizza option.
Accommodation
Hotel Villa Paradiso: it has rooms with incredible balconies and terraces, and a rooftop bar.
Modica
SIGHTSEEING & CULTURE
Modica is a charming town located in the southeastern part of Sicily (about a 4 hour drive from Palermo), known for its rich history, stunning Baroque architecture, and delicious chocolate. The town's historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, boasting beautiful buildings and monuments that showcase the unique Baroque style of the region. Modica is also famous for its traditional chocolate-making, which has been a local specialty since the 16th century. Visitors can explore the town's many chocolate shops and sample some of the best chocolate in Italy. With its beautiful architecture, fascinating history, and delicious food, Modica is a great destination for anyone traveling to Sicily.
Sightseeing
Duomo di San Giorgio (Saint George’s Cathedral): a spectacular church with an iconic stairway at the front.
Climb 250 steps from Modica Bassa (lower town) to Modica Alta (upper town): 250 steps connect the lower with the upper part of the city. The view from the top is worth the hike.
Food & Drinks
Osteria dei Sapori Perduti: home-cooking style Sicilian dishes.
Caffè Adamo: one of the best granita and gelato places you’ll have try.
Sabadí: great for a tasting of the unique Modica chocolate.
Accommodation
Casa Natìa: our friends own this incredible villa that can host up to 9 people. We couldn’t recommend it more.
Riserva dello Zingaro, Scopello & Castellammare del Golfo
NATURE & ADVENTURES
Riserva dello Zingaro, Scopello & Castellammare del Golfo are three destinations that should not be missed on a trip to Sicily. Riserva dello Zingaro is a stunning nature reserve located on the northwestern coast of the island (a 1 hour drive from Palermo), known for its crystal-clear waters and scenic hiking trails. Scopello is a picturesque seaside village famous for its ancient tonnara, traditional stone houses, and delicious seafood. Castellammare del Golfo is a charming medieval town with a rich history and culture, offering visitors an authentic taste of Sicilian life. Together, these three destinations offer a perfect combination of natural beauty, culture, and relaxation, making them popular on many itineraries for Sicily.
Adventures
Hiking: Riserva dello Zingaro is a natural reserve that can only be crossed on foot. It has some of the best beaches in Italy. An official hiking guide can be found here: there are 7 beaches that are part of the trail and multiple paths to choose from.
Scopello: this is the southernmost entrance of the Reserve and includes an ancient Tonnara, what used to be a tuna-processing facility and is now an open-air museum. The movie “Ocean’s Twelve” was filmed here.
Scuba diving and snorkeling: the water here is just incredible, and scuba diving allows for visits to underwater caves. We booked our experience with Cetaria Diving Center and would recommend them.
NATURE & ADVENTURES
Scala dei Turchi
Scala dei Turchi is a stunning natural landmark located on the southern coast of Sicily (a 1.5 hour drive from Palermo), renowned for its unique white limestone cliffs and crystal-clear waters. The name Scala dei Turchi, which means "Turkish Steps" in Italian, refers to the distinctive shape of the cliffs, which resemble a flight of stairs. Visitors to Scala dei Turchi can enjoy swimming in the clear blue waters, sunbathing on the soft sandy beaches, and exploring the area's natural beauty. The cliffs are particularly popular at sunset, when the warm colors of the sky create a stunning backdrop for the picturesque landscape.
Basking in the view of Scala dei Turchi.
Adventures
Scala dei Turchi (“The Stair”): A stunning white cliff formation that rises out of the Mediterranean Sea. You can walk along the top of the cliffs and enjoy the beautiful views of the sea and the surrounding countryside.
NATURE & ADVENTURES
Riserva di Vendicari
Riserva di Vendicari is a stunning nature reserve located in southeastern Sicily (about a 4 hour drive from Palermo), known for its pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters, and diverse wildlife. Visitors can also explore the ancient ruins of the Tonnara di Vendicari, a historic tuna-fishing complex that dates back to the 17th century. In addition to its natural and cultural attractions, the reserve offers plenty of opportunities for outdoor activities such as hiking, snorkeling, and swimming. Whether you're a nature lover or simply seeking a peaceful escape from the city, Riserva di Vendicari is a must-visit destination in Sicily.
Adventures
Swimming, Hiking and Birdwatching: You can find beautiful beaches to swim in crystal-clean water, hike along 13 km of coast and birdwatch. A full official guide is here.
NATURE & ADVENTURES
Lampedusa
Lampedusa, the southernmost island of Italy (a 50-minute flight from Palermo), is a true paradise on earth that attracts visitors from all over the world. This charming island, located in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea, boasts crystal-clear waters, white sandy beaches, and stunning landscapes that make it a must-visit destination. Its pristine beaches are considered some of the best in Europe, and the island's unique position makes it a popular spot for birdwatching and marine life observation. In addition to its natural beauty, Lampedusa has a fascinating history and culture, with ancient ruins, picturesque villages, and delicious local cuisine. Whether you're looking for a relaxing beach vacation or an adventurous outdoor experience, Lampedusa has something to offer for everyone.
The best water we have ever seen in Lampedusa.
Jeff enjoyed swimming laps around Rabbit Island 😂
Adventures
Boat tour with lunch: just head to the main Pier (“Porto Nuovo”) and you will find many options. All the boats all offer a full-day boat tour which includes a seafood lunch buffet for around $50.
FOOD & WINE
What to Eat in Sicily
Writing this section was an impossible feat. These suggestions do not even scratch the surface of what you could be indulging in while in Sicily, nor do they do any justice to the unparalleled Sicilian culinary culture. So take these just as a list of the things we miss the most when we’re away, that are the hardest to reproduce away from Sicily and that Jeff incidentally had posing photos with.
Pasta alla norma: pasta with fried eggplant, tomato sauce and basil, topped with seasoned ricotta cheese. As a rule of thumb, the more ricotta, the better.
Arancini (or arancine in some areas): rice balls traditionally stuffed with either ragù sauce or prosciutto and butter, breaded and deep fried. A nap may be required afterwards.
Fresh fruit: we haven't found a place with better produce than Sicily. Lucky for you, June-July is the right season to get a taste of watermelon, cherries, lemons and potentially even some early peaches and prunes.
Cannolo: traditionally stuffed with fresh sheep ricotta and covered in pistachio. Note: the shell is normally fried in lard, making it not vegetarian friendly.
Granita: the Sicilian Ice. The most traditional flavor is lemon (which Francesca recommends), but you can find all types from mulberry ("gelsi"), to coffee, to chocolate. As the photo suggests, Jeff's granita of choice is pistachio.
Paste di mandorla: almond cookies, ideal for breakfast or dessert with your espresso. Be careful as it's easy to lose count of how many you eat (we've been there).
Panelle e Crocchè: a panella is a thin rectangle made of chickpea flour and fried; the crocchè is made of potato, breaded and fried. We recommend eating them stuffed in a soft roll for a quick trip to heaven.
Seafood pasta (but really, seafood everything): you won't find better one in the world. Sardines, clams, mussels and swordfish are great choices. Please, do not ask for parmigiano to put on top: it's largely considered a culinary crime.
Pani câ meusa: typical Palermo street food item, consisting of a sandwich stuffed with beef lung and spleen meat, plus cheese. Trust us on this one: it tastes better than it sounds.
Pistachio everything: pistachio croissants, pistachio cakes, pistachio cream, pistachio pasta. There's a reason why it's known as "the green gold of Sicily": make sure you find out!
Caponata di melanzane: more eggplant anyone? Get this appetizer or side dish made primarily with a mix of eggplant, tomatoes, olives and capers. Put it on bread as a spread for extra deliciousness.
FOOD & WINE
Wine Tastings
Sicily is also one of the oldest wine-producing regions in Italy, with a winemaking tradition that dates back thousands of years. Today, Sicily is home to some of the most exciting and innovative wineries in the country, producing a diverse range of high-quality wines from indigenous grape varieties. Whether you're a wine connoisseur or simply enjoy a good glass of wine, a wine-tasting tour in Sicily is a must-do experience. Take a journey through the beautiful countryside and historic towns of Sicily, and discover the unique flavors and aromas of Sicilian wine.
Cantine Planeta: (about 2 hours from Palermo, on the southern coast) this wine label has multiple wineries all over Sicily. We visited the one in Menfi, which is located in a farmhouse dating back to the 16th century, and had an amazing tasting experience complemented by lunch. Prior reservation on their website is required.
Donnafugata: (about 3 hours from Palermo, near Mount Etna) this winery offers different packages of tastings combined with food and tours of the wineries. It is situated in the Mount Etna volcanic area and the drive there offers some spectacular views.
Cantine Ferreri (40 minutes from Palermo): our friend’s family owns this winery. You can get a private and customized wine tasting experience, alongside Sicilian specialties, directly in the vineyard. To book, you can message ferrerivini@gmail.com and mention you are our guests!
